Well the amp turns on, but the sun doesn't work. I assume it's because it's not getting enough power. Can anyone tell me how powerful of a PSU I need, or some other way, for me to hook my car amp and sub in my house?. Hook up car amp in house? Hi all, I successfully have my Sony explode stereo hooked up with 4 speakers in my house using a PSU. I have an 850W mono amp, that I want to use to hook up my 10 sub as well. I have a 350W PSU with 16A for the 12V. Well the amp turns on, but the sun doesn't work. I assume it's because it's not . show more Hi all, I successfully have my Sony explode stereo hooked up with 4 speakers in my house using a PSU. I have an 850W mono amp, that I want to use to hook up my 10 sub as well. I have a 350W PSU with 16A for the 12V.
I have a car Amplifier in my house (Just collecting dust) and want to put it to use, I dont have a car anymore and i have a 12" subwoofer.
I've collected some cables around my house and partially hooked my amp to my Pc but all i need now is a way of powering this amp inside my house. Looking into the manual for the amp it requires 34A (amps) of power. How would i go about powering this? Also how Do i turn it on because it has a remote Feature that has to go to the deck and Im not setting up a deck aswell. Thanks One way: Run it off a 12V battery ( deep cycle is best ) and keep that battery charged with an automotive battery charger.
Friends off the "grid" do this with solar panels to battery bank. Or run the amp off a AC/DC power supply. In the US you can get regulated bench supplies, But 34 Amps is substantial, so a PS of that capacity is going to be expensive. Quote: Originally posted by AndrewT sell it. I second this. Car amps are not audiphile amps by a long stretch and especially car subs drivers are horrible when used indoors in a low noise enviroment where you can hear all it's flaws.
Alternatively, if you're dead set on using it, just use the 12v supply in the PC to power it provided you have a relatively high wattage PSU. Don't mind the 34A specification, that's only going to be in very short peaks if indeed ever. "Ice" didn't state the details on the amp in question... FWIW: I have done numerous 12V sound systems, for portable high SPL sound systems in parades, to individuals that can't get AC to their homes in the country.
The quality of 12V components can be very bad, so using low end amps are not worth it. There are however very good 12V amps and head units. It's not the voltage but the quality of components and implementation.
There are of course inherent problems with a 12V DC system, You should use a high sensitivity speaker design, to maximum efficiency. Remember there are audiophiles who power their systems with "flea powered" amps. Thanks for the replies. I've hooked up a spare Computer Powersupply and I am using both 12v rails, 18A combined (No I did not add 8A from each 12v rail). I've shorted over the remote and 12V+ and to my suprise the amp turns on.
So If the Maximum my Amp will take is about 34A, Im going to need 34A at 12V right? Ive researched for Powersupplies and came across one of these. 60A 12v Rail PSU 750W Im guessing I'll just set it up the same way but I'll put a fuse into the circuit, 35-40A fuse would be Okay right?
I could'nt find anything cheap that was around 40A so if i want to upgrade amp 60A should do and its pretty cheap so.. what do you think? Also some people said the quality of the sound would be ****, with the Current PSU im using right now it sounds good but when I crank it over 50% my Amplifier Starts clipping and sounds awful, which means it obviously needs more Power.
Thanks Myself, I really woudn't invest in another power supply so you can run your amp at max power.........I'd guess you will get another car in due time & an 'extra' PS will be sitting around, unused for some time.
Besides you may have some neighbors that will go ballistic hearing you sub at full power. You do realize that a car sub is a very different creature as opposed to a "home" subwoofer..........the two sound completely different.........If it sounds good for you thats' OK!
Perhaps a 'spare' car battery can be used for the high current demands with your computer supply configured as a float charger. Maxing out your computer supply is not good as it may not have any safety circuits that can deal with overloads.
_______________________________________Rick....... .... My neighbours will go crazy I suppose they used to get angry over that 4" logitech 20WRMS sub I had, I guess I will only crank it when they are not at home.
Although I've thought about it I am getting a new setup (Kicker Solo X 18" or a Fi BTL) and a better Amp So I might aswell put it to good use, not that the supply costs much anyway. Thanks for the reply though. Forum Jump Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post khundude Pass Labs 2 19th November 2008 07:13 AM Netlist Everything Else 23 8th March 2008 12:43 PM hags Everything Else 1 8th October 2007 11:00 PM studiotech Solid State 3 10th October 2005 08:55 AM chris ma Everything Else 10 23rd June 2004 12:51 AM New To Site?
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best way to set up car amp in house - How To Wire a Car Amp to a Wall Outlet
Basically, you need a battery, headunit, RCA cables, amplifier, subs, and speakers, Use the red and yellow from the headunit and the power cable coming from the amp and solder them together. (You can tape them but soldering yields a better connection) Do the same with the headunit ground and ground coming from the amp. connect the subs to the amp. solder or tape you negative and positive speaker outputs to your speakers. If you want radio you should be able to get signal by just sticking a wire in the antenna input.
Only one of the rcas on the back of a car head unit is your subwoofer output because the rca pre amp outputs are labeled and in the manual it will tell you what the rcas are for and it's very important that you hook your car amplifier to the subwoofer rca if your using subwoofers because using the speaker rca pre amplifier outputs will result in mids and highs coming out of your subwoofers Take a wire and put the yellow, red, and the wire you have to a positive post on a battery.
Then take a separate wire and connect the black and the other piece of wire to the negative post on the battery. If the yellow, red, and black wire are long enough you don't need the 2 extra wires those are just for more length. Most likely you'll have to turn it on with the power button because the remote wire isn't connected which is usually solid blue or blue with a white stripe I am planning on removing all of my car system due to the fact that I got tired of it plus it weights a lot.
I have a question though. Will just one battery be enough for a x-over, three amps, 2 pairs of 6*9, and four subwoofers?
(two of them are competitin subwoofers) What about a car capacitor will that help as well cause I have two. PSU's strain the wires and your houses electrical system, most new car batteries are sealed they still give off hydrogen but only a very small amount.
You would have to be locked in a tiny sealed room for 3 weeks before it would affect you. A car battery or a AC to DC power supply is the safest unless you want to start a fire. the charger only can give so much power. It's not like a battery that holds power within it. A charger doesn't have reserve to keep the system working efficient when the amp is under a load.
A battery can drain while constantly being fed by a charger to keep a healthy voltage going to the amp . A charger can work yes, but it's not good for the amp because it's constantly fighting to keep enought power to run efficiently. If you do use ONLY a charger be sure to check if the amp isn't getting hot
Hello everybody, recently i bought car amplifier for repair and decided that im gonna replace my Sony XM-4020 that i have been running as my subwoofer amplifier for a year now. I took this opportunity to write instructable on how to properly hook car amplifier for use inside of your house (connected to mains voltage) and what you should be careful about.
There are many reasons why you would want to use car amplifier, but if you can choose between proper 120v-240v amplifier and car amplifier i would suggest you to pick house amp, its power supply is well designed and you will get proper power output out of it.
Car amplifiers are mostly rated at 14,4V and lower impedances (1 or 2 ohm for example) while some home amplifiers can only go as low as 4 ohms. Since you will be running it off 12V power supply (more about that in further steps) you might not get as stable power as you would in your car. If you however still choose car amplifier then continue reading as i will try to provide as many information about it as i can. I've been running car amplifiers in my room for 6 years or so, it used to be hard to get proper amplifier and if u were like me you probably had spare ATX power suplies so you could save a few bucks on that.
These days it's much cheaper and easier to just get 24V chip amp from ebay and have decent setup. Even designing and building your own, internet is full of schematics that are just waiting to be built. If you already have amplifier you can just skip this step. If you still haven't got one and you are thinking about buying it there are few things to consider. Mainly when choosing amplifier you are gonna choose between Class AB and Class D designs.
Most people are using class AB on mids and highs (midrange speakers and tweeters) while going for class D on subwoofers.
Reasons for this are that class AB has better sound characteristics. There is alot of discussion about this so im not gonna go there, but main difference between them is power consumption. While class D has excellent efficiency of +80%, class AB might be only about 50-60% which means they will also heat up alot more. This is thing to consider when choosing PSU and desired output power.
If you have smaller amplifier (less than 250W) it may not be problem since even with 50% efficiency it would only draw 500W, however if you have bigger amplifier it would draw insane amounts of power so you will need bigger and more expensive power supply. Since you have your amplifier, you need 12V power supply to power it up. PC ATX and Server power supplies offer a lot of power and they can be cheaper than other solutions.
Only downside is they provide only 12V and not 14,4V. This means you are gonna get a bit less power than your amplifier is rated at (some are rated at 12V and at 14,4V, some only at 14.4V). Other alternative is to get 12V power supply for LEDs or other things. These have small potentiometer so you can adjust voltage a bit higher, usually from 11-14V. PC ATX usually requires green wire to be connected to negative terminal to power on.
You can use simple switch to short them together. You will also need to cut off connectors and bundle together all 12V wires and Ground. Modifying ATX power supply for 14V output can be done if you have some electronic knowledge, but if you dont then you shouldn't be opening one. They contain capacitors that are charged up to mains voltage and can be deadly. For this reason i'm not gonna go further, if you are good with it you wont have any problems with it since its as easy as changing few resistors.
How much power? Now we come to a part where difference between AB and D class comes in play. Add together power of all channels, for example if your amplifier is 2x250W you get 500W, if you have monoblock 1x500W or just bridge 2 channels use power that its rated at.
Good rule of thumb is to multiply that by 1.5 for class AB and 1.2 for class D. So your 500W amplifier actually draws 750W if its class AB or 600W if its class D.
Add about 50W of headroom to that. Divide that by 12V and you roughly need current of 67A for class AB or 55A for class D. Check if your rating is a bit higher than your fuses on your amplifier. If you go under it, it may not be enough to blow fuses which could lead to damage of your wires, power supply or even burn them down.
Now you see why its better to get class D for higher amounts of power, that's 200W difference for 500W amplifier. Use max current rating of your power supply to choose your wire gauge. Its always better to get as big wire as you can connect to your power input that is as short as possible and then use longer wires to your speaker. With higher power amplifiers its good to also include fuse that is recommended with your power wire. Use online charts to roughly calculate your wire gauge, but its always better to get bigger gauge as they will have less drop in voltage with higher current draws.
I included diagrams for connecting psu to amplifier but if you have any questions just ask me in comments since your setup might be a bit different. You can use switch between REM and Positive input to turn on inputs, however best would be to use DPDT switch and use one side to short REM to Positive and other one to short Negative to Green (PS_ON) wire on your ATX PSU.
This way your PSU would turn on at the same time as your amplifier. Alternatively you can use simple SPDT switch to short Negative to Green (PS_ON) and just put jumper on REM and Positive input.
Ground is not same as Earth on your PSU so don't connect Ground to PSU case! Case of your amplifier is negative or ground terminal but PSU is earth, shorting them out will cause ELCB or other breakers to break. For audio input you need RCAs. Simple 3.5mm to RCA will do the trick if you want to connect it to your pc or laptop. If you already have receiver or other device that has RCA output then you need male to male RCA cable.
You can get them in any bigger shop or even online. If you have bass knob it simply goes inline with your RCAs. If you have high power amplifier and simple PSU wont get you enough power you could consider getting 12V batteries.
Don't get open types since they can produce a lot of hydrogen while charging which is not good considering you are going to have them in your room.
SLA or Gel types are good for this since they are mostly closed and have better discharge capabilities (deep discharge). This would require a bit different approach since you will need to get 14V-15V (0.5V drop from diode) from your power supply and add diode in series.
Diode should be high power, rated at least few amps more than your max charge current, high power bridge rectifier could also work since higher current ones can be screwed to heatsink. You will need to put switch on mains input of your PSU if it doesn't have one since overcharging lead acid batteries is never a good idea. As safety precaution you will need to add fuses since they can provide much higher currents (up to 200A for single 10Ah battery!) for shorter periods which means it can definitely burn even higher gauge wires.
Unless you are doing something crazy just skip this step, in my opinion it isn't worth it for daily listening at normal levels. If you wired everything correctly, you can turn on your amplifier now. See, that was easy. Now comes the tricky part, since all setups are not equal, you might get less or more power than advertised. Setting gains isn't that hard if you have SMD DD-1 or oscilloscope. Turn every filter, bass boost and gain down and turn bass knob or volume knob all the way up and leave your audio source at about 50%.
Get 40Hz test tone for subwoofer amplifier, or 1kHz for full-range amplifier. Its safest to tune it at 0dB since that way you can't clip output signal even if you listen to rebassed or bass boosted music.
If you dont listen to those types you can get -3dB or -6dB but you might clip it with some music. Hook your audio source to amplifier, play test tone and turn the volume up. Your audio source might clip so firstly checking outputs with DD-1 or oscilloscope should reveal any distortion or clipping, if everything is ok you can raise your gain until waveform starts looking distorted (as on pic 2) or clipping LED lights up on DD-1.
This should be done while your speakers are hooked up and using few test tones. Since your speaker has impedance which varies by frequency you are playing it at, its always best to play different tones to see if amplifier distorts. I don't have SMD DD-1 or oscilloscope, what should i do? Well you can do this by ear but it wont be as accurate. Simply do everything as described before, but when you raise volume up listen to change in sound.
It's hard to describe it but you will notice that your speaker will change sound when it starts to distort. Again make sure you do this at multiple frequencies to ensure output is completely clean. EXO made a good tutorial about that, so if i'm not clear enough watch this video or ask me in comments. My amplifier makes much more power than my speakers can handle, will that be problem? Some speakers can handle more power than rated without getting damaged, some may not.
To ensure you are not getting more power to them, use nominal impedance rating and ohms law to determine how high should voltage on output be. For example if you have 4 ohm speaker that can handle only 100W, play test tone and raise gain until you get 20V on outputs and make sure waveform isn't distorted since clipping hurts speakers more than getting too much power to them. My power supply shuts off when raising gain, what could be the problem?
Getting power supply from china or suspicious sellers might not mean you will get exactly what you wanted, your power supply might not output as much current as it states on it. Try measuring voltage on outputs of your PSU, if it drops too much it may trigger undervoltage protection to prevent any damage. My amplifier gets into protection when raising gain, what could be the problem?
First make sure your amplifier is stable at impedance of your speakers. Dont run 1 or 2 ohm speakers on amplifier that doesn't say its stable at those impedances. Check voltage on power inputs of your amplifier, if it drops under 10-11V it may trigger undervoltage protection on your amplifier. Some amplifiers have multiple colors of LEDs to indicate so check your manual.
I'm gonna expand this list so comment if you have problems.
Sony car sub-woofer with a home theater receiver! No 12-volt amp or car stereo required